You are not going to out-argue a seller. You are going to look at the right things, in the right order, and know what the coach is worth before anybody says a number. Inside: the twenty-minute walkaround done from the ground, what the flashlight finds in the floor, how to read a chassis and a test drive, and the calendar that keeps it running afterwards. One man wrote in last spring having paid $65,000 for a coach worth about $40,000. This is $27.
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A full reroof runs $9,000 to $15,000 — and the plywood is extra. Add $500 to $3,000 more the moment somebody finds rot underneath. Water from one failed seam is what turns a $25,000 coach into scrap, and it is visible from the ground with a phone on a pole.
$65,000 paid for a coach worth about $40,000. He wasn't angry when he wrote in, he was sad — he only wanted to know whether he could have known. He could have. Every bit of it was on that coach in daylight where he could see it.
Six tires: $3,400 at the cheap end, past $7,500 with mobile service. A coach covers 2,000 miles a year and stands in the sun for the other eleven months carrying most of its load. Date codes nine years old are not a maintenance item — they are a bill due before you go anywhere.
The median slide repair is $1,200. Chewed teeth is a $2,000 one. Seals cracked, torn or squashed permanently flat are $300 to $800 a slide. There is no clutch and no pressure sensor in these — a hydraulic slide will close on your forearm with several thousand pounds behind it and never know.
$1,500 to $2,500 for a part that a $40 pump killed. On the 24-valve years of the 5.9 Cummins the little lift pump fails quietly, the injection pump starves, and then it dies too. Knowing which years and what to listen for is the whole difference.
$15,000 of catch-up in the first year. Six tires, roof reseal, transmission service, coolant flush, oil and filters. On a $35,000 coach that is $9,000 to $12,000 that should already be sitting in an account on the day you sign — and almost nobody is told.
A motorhome is driven maybe two thousand miles a year and stands still in the weather for the rest of it. Almost nothing that kills one is mileage. It is a seam that opened four winters ago and a floor that has been wet ever since, and by the time you can feel it underfoot the repair has moved from a tube of sealant to eight or twenty thousand dollars of structure.
Which is why the order matters more than the checklist. Roof and seams first, because that is the one that ends the conversation. Floor and slides second. Chassis and engine third. Systems fourth. Price last — because a number you name before you have looked is a number somebody else chose for you. A man who understands why he is looking does the job properly. A man following a list does about seventy percent of it.
202 pages, written the way it would be explained across a kitchen table — the reason before the instruction, in the order you would actually do it standing in front of a coach.
The roof, the seams, the sidewalls and the tires — all of it from the ground, with a phone taped to a $30 painter's pole. Nobody our age needs to be on an RV roof to price a coach.
Soft floors, hidden water, the plumbing and the slide-outs. Where to press, what a stain at a wall base really means, and which findings are a price negotiation and which mean get in the car and go home.
The V10, the Godzilla, the 8.1 Vortec, the 5.9 and 6.7 and 8.9 Cummins — which are good for 300,000 miles and which have one weak spot. Plus how to actually test drive one.
Air, refrigeration, heat, twelve volts and the generator. The overnight refrigerator test that ends the conversation, and what to knock off the price when the seller says no to it.
What the coach is actually worth, which inspection to pay for and when, the doc fees that vary from $175 to a straight-faced $1,000, and why a trade-in once cost the author $7,000 for the pleasure of being called a good negotiator.
The first ninety days in the right order, then the year, every year — and the one-page walkaround card at the back to tear out or photograph and keep in the coach.
Real pages from the book — not mockups. Large type, hand-drawn diagrams where a photograph would not help, and a full-page plate whenever the numbers matter.


The twenty-minute walkaround from the ground. What the flashlight finds inside — floors, water, plumbing, slides. The chassis, the engine and the drive. The systems that cost the most to fix. Then the deal: what it's worth, what to have checked, and how to walk away.
The catch-up bill, in the right order. What has to be done before the first trip, what can wait a season, and what to hold in the account instead of spending on the coach itself.
The calendar that goes on the refrigerator. Seams, tires, fluids, batteries and the roof — month by month, with what each one costs and which ones you hand to somebody else.
What to hand off, who to call when something lets go a long way from home, and how to sell it well when the time comes. Plus the one-page walkaround card to tear out or photograph.
No. It was written for a man or a woman around retirement age who is about to buy one of these things or already has — not for professionals and not for people who intend to live in one full time. There is no jargon that isn't explained the sentence it appears in, and the type is large on purpose.
More than half the book is about keeping one. The first ninety days, the year-by-year calendar, what each job costs, what to hand to a shop and what genuinely isn't worth doing. The buying half still earns its keep the day you sell it, because you will know what a buyer is about to find.
No, and it says so repeatedly. It tells you which inspection level to buy and when — over $30,000, buy the Level 2, no argument — and to book the separate chassis inspection, because the RV inspector never puts the coach on a lift. What this does is stop you paying $600 to inspect a coach you could have ruled out from the sidewalk in twenty minutes.
It gives you the rule and the reasoning: under about 5,000 miles a year, mostly flat highway, in a coach under thirty-four feet — buy gas and keep the difference. It also names the specific engines and the specific weak spots on each, which is what actually decides it once you're looking at real coaches rather than categories.
Honestly, no. It is written about Class A motorhomes — gas and diesel — and that is where every number, every engine and every walkaround step comes from. The roof, seam, floor and slide chapters carry over to a towable almost completely; the chassis, engine and drive chapters do not.
Instantly, as a PDF, to the email address you use at checkout. It reads on a phone, a tablet, a computer or printed — and the walkaround card at the back is meant to be photographed and kept on your phone for the lot.
Because it's an instant digital download, all sales are final — that is the honest answer, and it's why the pages above show you real spreads before you buy. If you hit a technical problem with your file or your download, email contact@liibro.com and we'll make sure you get your copy. Full details in the Refund Policy.
The author bought his first motorhome badly, and it cost him about eleven thousand dollars to find out how. He bought his second one well, kept it nine years, and sold it for four hundred dollars less than he paid. The difference was not luck and it was not money. It was knowing what to look at, and in what order.
A Level 2 inspection runs $600 to $700, and you should still buy one. A pre-purchase mistake runs $11,000 to $25,000. This is $27.
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202 pages · the twenty-minute walkaround, done from the ground · what the flashlight finds in the floor · every slide type and what it costs · the engines, and the one weak spot on each · the overnight refrigerator test · what to knock off the price and how to say it · the first-year catch-up bill · the year-by-year calendar · the one-page walkaround card